Your Washing Machine Is Stopping Mid Cycle

Is your washing machine stopping mid-cycle? Does the appliance switch off or do its lights start flashing for no reason? Here we explain the various possible reasons for these issues to you.

THE POSSIBLE CAUSES FOR THIS ISSUE:

The appliance is no longer being supplied with electricity

The appliance is no longer being supplied with electricity This might seem obvious, but first check there are no problems with the electricity supply. Ensure your appliance is properly plugged in. The electricity may also have been cut off for some reason, so check the fusebox to see if any circuit breakers or fuses have tripped. And finally, the problem might also be due to a faulty supply cable that needs replacing.

There is a problem with the water supply

There is a problem with the water supply Your washing machine can stop mid-cycle if the water supply isn't working properly. This problem could be coming from your machine's supply hose or the supply valve fitted to your plumbing. Sometimes, a weak flow of water via the supply hose can simply be due to the supply valve not being turned on enough. In other cases, too weak a flow can be caused by blockages or damage, such as a blocked filter, a kinked hose, a hole, etc. Carefully check that the water is flowing sufficiently strongly from the supply, and make sure the valve is fully open.

A wrong setting has been selected

A wrong setting has been selected Selecting the wrong setting on your washing machine can lead to it stopping mid-cycle. Some machines actually have a "rinse hold" button or mode. When this is turned on or activated, your appliance will simply do as instructed and stop when the tub is full, i.e. before the end of the washing cycle. To resolve the problem, switch off or deactivate this mode.

Your plumbing installation is creating an automatic syphoning issue

Your plumbing installation is creating an automatic syphoning issue If your washing machine's drain hose is too deeply inserted into your stand pipe, a siphoning phenomenon can occur. When this happens, your washing machine continuously takes in water and immediately expels it via the drain hose, stopping only when it goes into error mode (or the cycle will take longer than normal). Ensure, therefore, that the U-shaped drain hose bracket is at least 65 cm above the ground, and avoid inserting the hose too deeply into the plumbing pipe: 10 cm is sufficient.

The drain filter is obstructed by a foreign object

The drain filter is obstructed by a foreign object The drain filter prevents foreign objects (buttons, pins, handkerchiefs, etc.) from coming into contact with the drain pump. If the filter is obstructed, the appliance may stop mid-cycle when washing. Check the condition of your filter (located behind a small hatch at the bottom of your washing machine) and either clean it, or, if it's damaged, replace it.

The solenoid valve is not working correctly

The solenoid valve is not working correctly The solenoid valve is a kind of electric tap that allows water to flow into your washing machine so it can fill up. If this component is not working as it should, your machine may struggle to fill due to the water flowing too slowly via this valve. Check that the solenoid is not obstructed by sand or limescale. To do this, first disconnect the supply hose from your washing machine. Next, unplug the appliance from the mains and disconnect it from the water supply, then remove the appliance's top cover and disconnect the electric cabling from the solenoid. The condition of the solenoid is easy to check. Simply use a multimeter in ohmmeter mode. You should get a reading of around 4 kilo ohms when the meter's probes are placed on the two terminals of the solenoid coil. If there is no continuity, it will need to be replaced.

The heating element is defective

The heating element is defective The heating element in a washing machine serves to heat the water to the right temperature. If it's defective, the wash programme may stop mid-cycle. With the machine unplugged from the electricity supply, remove the rear panel (or side panel if it's a top-loading model) and check the condition of the heating element using a multimeter. To be able to carry out the test, you need to disconnect the electric cables attached to the element. You should then get a reading of around 30 ohms when you place the multimeter probes on the element's two terminals. If you find there is no continuity, replace the heating element.

The temperature sensor is faulty

The temperature sensor is faulty The NTC temperature sensor should normally be located near the heating element. It enables the circuit board to detect when the right temperature has been reached. If this component is defective, the appliance could take longer to wash, or may well stop completely and display an error code. Temperature sensors should normally give a reading of around 25 kilo ohms at room temperature (this varies from brand to brand).

The door safety lock is not working properly

The door safety lock is not working properly The door safety lock prevents the washing machine door from being opened when the appliance is operating. If it's defective, it could stop working (this often happens during a wash cycle), causing the washing machine to stop. Check the door safety lock and examine the condition of the connector to see if a false contact is occurring. This component can be damaged through electrical overheating.

The circuit board is faulty

The circuit board is faulty The circuit board manages the various functions of your washing machine (motor, heating, water, etc.). If it's defective, the programme can stop mid-cycle and the machine may go into error mode. If you have already checked everything else, it could be that the control module needs replacing. However, this is a costly operation, so carefully check all other potential sources of the problem before focussing your attention on the circuit board.

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